Choosing your bandsaw
The band saw is a major machine in a woodworking workshop. The market offers a variety of models, features and different quality. Let’s see the characteristics to be considered in order to make the best choice for your needs.
The machine bed
The frame of the structure is important. It determines the working capacity and quality of cut that is very sensitive to vibration. The frames are now cast uncommon (except for very large machines) in favor of welded frames.
This is the major dimensional characteristic. It corresponds to the distance between the saw blade and the frame, determining the maximum width possible sawing.
The cutting height
Function of the gooseneck and engine power. The cutting height determines the maximum cutting thickness.
The number of flying
2 flying saws are by far the most common. In this case the diameter of the steering wheels corresponds to the dimension of the gooseneck thus the cutting width. 3 flying saws are much less common. Their design provides a significant width of sawing with a reduced diameter flywheels and therefore an outer frame less bulky. However, the blade undergoes a curvature to the passage of flying, which results in faster wear and a tendency to vibration.
The blade guides
Their function is to guide the blade laterally and held in position during cutting. The side guides are often synthetic resin on small machines and mounted on bearings for the largest.
The cutting table
The size of the table determines the working comfort and contributes to the precision of sawing. Over the table is wider and the part is correctly maintained. It can be fixed or adjustable from 0 ° to 45 °, or 0 ° to -15 ° for negative cuts. It is always equipped with a parallel cutting guide and a slot for miter cutting guide. Cast iron is preferable to aluminum. More resistant, it is also stiffer and skiing is better.
The number of speeds
Most band saws have only a single scroll blade speed. Calculated taking into account the diameter of the steering wheels, it is between 800 and 1000 m / min.
The band saw requires a fairly substantial power. For proof, simply sawing a wooden board with a handsaw. The cuts are also fretwork intensive power.
Do not choose too tight! If this is your first purchase, think the bandsaw will quickly become the must-machine in your workshop. A gooseneck too small or too limited cutting capacity will soon disabilities.
Do straight cut with bandsaws
Properly implemented and maintained, a saw cutting wood tape must be cut right for cuts or rip cross sections. As blades wear, the accuracy of the cut decreases. Saws made to the owner blades typically run only 1/2 inch wide, making deep cuts perfectly clear very delicate. Choosing the right blade for the job and saw fit properly ensure the best possible results.
Things you need
- Allen Keys
Select the right blade for the job. Skip-tooth blade is designed for use tear when cutting with the grain. Choose blades rake teeth made for cross when working across the grain. Please consult the saw for advice on the appropriate blades for wood or hardwood. The harder the material, the more teeth per inch you need. Using too high blades with TPI for the material can cause clogging, according AllBandsawBlades.com.
Unplug the bandsaw before adjusting or replacing the blade. Step to the side and turn the power on and off to make sure you have disconnected the right cord.
Remove blade shields and loosen blade guides and backup bearings. Screwdriver and allen keys usually correspond these parts, but the procedures vary depending on the brand of the machine. Remember to loosen blade guides above and below the band saw table.
Adjust the tension of the wheel of the upper saw for clamping the band saw blade. Use the procedure recommended by operator’s manual – some saws require a large allen wrench for this and other supply voltage checks. Tighten until the tension gauge – a standard feature on most bandsaws – correctly reads the width of the blade. Without tension gauge, tighten until the entire curve disappears from the working edge of the blade and tighten a further half turn, according to Robert Vaughan of Fine Woodworking magazine. .
Spin band saw wheels and carefully adjust the inclination of the upper wheel so that the blade works with fair cutting teeth in the edge side of the rubber pad.
Guidings advance and backup bearings to meet the sides and back of the band saw blade. Guides and bearings should barely touch the blade as it rotates. The blade tension, no pressure guide, holds the straight blade. Backup bearings only firmly touch the spine of the blade at the push of a cut. Blades badly strained will not cut right, said the Extension Service of the University of Oklahoma.
Reinstall all guards and safety covers before turning the machine again.
Hold pieces firmly against the miter gauge itself or tear fence and advance work steadily through the saw. Put too much pressure causes the blade to twist or bow, start cutting the line. Cutting blades precision cut short supply pressure.
Tips & Warnings
Test the band saw on a piece of scrap to verify that everything is working properly before attempting a major cut.
Plane one side and one edge of the piece perfectly true to provide accurate surfaces to be placed on the saw table and fence.
Do not overcompensate with large blades that most of your machine allows execution. A wide blade 3/4 inches can stand on the wheels, but the frame of a machine constructed for 1/2-inch blades can not tighten the blade wider enough to run true.
Read more: Outdoor Baby Swing for lots of summer fun